Osteria Gamberoni

Osteria Gamberoni occupies part of Yap Ah Shak House, a restored heritage shophouse block off Jalan Dang Wangi on the edge of Chow Kit. It was set up by Roman-born Daniele Ponzani as a taste of home, and the cooking sticks to Italian heritage dishes rather than fusion.

Pasta is made fresh on site every day, from squid ink ravioli with prawns and scamorza to spaghetti alla chitarra in a Sicilian-style fish ragù and tagliolini with prawns and lemon. Pizzas are Roman-style and thin-crust, made with a 24-hour dough, and the fritto misto of local seafood with a citrus-herb dressing is a good opener. There is a curated Italian wine list and an early-evening aperitivo.

The setting is relaxed, with high ceilings and old shophouse character, which makes it a good choice for a casual dinner with friends or a date away from the malls. Book ahead at weekends.