Trattoria Nonna Lina

Trattoria Nonna Lina is a family business named after the grandmother of chef-owner Simone Vespasiani, who comes from Porto Santo Stefano on Tuscany's Monte Argentario coast. He brought his family over from Italy to run it with him. The dining room on Cantonment Road has checked tablecloths and family memorabilia, and the cooking is simple, rustic and Tuscan.

Order the pappardelle with Tuscan ragù or the gnocchi mare e monti with prawns, guanciale and porcini, and try the zuppetta argentarina, a seafood soup from the chef's home town. The spaghetti al cartoccio, baked in paper and served for two, is a popular choice, and the bistecca alla fiorentina is priced by weight. Finish with homemade tiramisu or lemon sorbet.

It suits a relaxed dinner for couples or families who want home-style Italian food rather than a polished, modern room. It is open daily for lunch and dinner, and the kitchen offers takeaway and custom menus by arrangement. Book on Chope or by phone.