Riva del Fiume Ristorante

Set on the ground floor of the Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok at Chao Phraya River, Riva del Fiume feels more Lake Como than Charoen Krung, with pale wood, soft pink tones and an open kitchen built around a wood-fired oven. Executive chef Andrea Accordi leads a team turning out handmade pasta and Neapolitan-style pizza using imported Italian ingredients.

Order the agnolotti with veal ossobuco or the lobster bigoli, then share a pizza from the oven; the cacio e pepe version is a favourite. Desserts are classic, from tiramisu to basil panna cotta, and service is polished in the way you would expect from the hotel.

Grab a table on the river terrace for sunset. It suits a stylish lunch, a celebration dinner or anyone staying nearby who wants Italian with a view. It is listed in the Michelin Guide and holds two Forchette from Gambero Rosso.