Canggu & Pererenan

Canggu, Berawa and Pererenan have become one of the liveliest places in Bali to eat Italian food. Many restaurants here are small, chef-run and relaxed, with fresh pasta made each day, wood-fired ovens and aperitivo hours that run into dinner after a day in the surf.

Della Terra in Pererenan changes its menu daily, and Riviera Trattoria next door pairs hand-rolled pasta with a busy aperitivo bar. ARTE has been a Pererenan favourite for years. In Canggu, Cantina Classe serves pasta and pizza under brick vaults until midnight, Artista Cucina makes a proper cream-free carbonara, and Numero Quattro at Echo Beach mixes house pasta with charcoal-grilled fish. Berawa adds Studio Pepe's long sharing lunches, Cantina Bali's wood-fired Neapolitan pizza, Fucina's late-night sourdough pizza and L'Osteria's busy family pizzeria.

Prices are generally kinder than in Seminyak, and most places welcome walk-ins on weekdays. Weekend evenings and sunset aperitivo get busy, so book or arrive early.