Seminyak & Kerobokan

Seminyak and Petitenget have the deepest Italian dining scene in Bali, and the restaurants spill over into Kerobokan, Umalas and down the coast to Legian and Kuta. Within a short scooter ride you can go from a beachfront institution to a chef-led tasting kitchen or a family trattoria that has been feeding locals for decades.

La Lucciola has been serving pasta and sunset cocktails on the beach since the 1990s, and MAURI and Amici bring serious, chef-driven Italian cooking to Petitenget. Da Maria's courtyard and Settimo Cielo at The Layar suit a long evening out, while Zia Tina, La Baracca and Bottega Italiana are easy, good-value choices along the same road. In Kerobokan and Umalas, Rustica, Otello's and Sanctuary feel like neighbourhood places, and Wild Habit turns out some of the island's best pizza from a wood-fired oven. Ultimo, Italian Job, Casa Blanca, Bella Italia and Al Dente cover Jalan Kayu Aya, Legian and Kuta.

Seminyak traffic is slow in the evening, so pick somewhere close to where you are staying. Beach tables at sunset go first, so book a day or two ahead in high season.